Desi Innovators: Gurlynn Gill And The Colorful Threads of Phulkari Co.

PC: Phulkari Co Website

In the rural villages of Punjab, women gather outside and loosely bind complex designs to cloth. They take bright threads of red and carefully weave them together into an impeccable geometric flower. The basic flower design is recreated a thousand times, using threads of vibrant green and luminescent yellow. Each flower is a different color, part of a larger pattern that once put together, creates a mesmerizing Phulkari dupatta, or shawl. These handwoven shawls carry the history and tradition of Punjab within them, adorned by Punjabi women everywhere. 

These priceless heirlooms are held on to, kept safely away so that when the time comes, a mother can give that delicate cloth to her daughter on the day of her wedding. Those threads, those colors, those designs carry a thousand year old tradition of weaving. Somewhere along the way, however, those threads started to become invisible. Phulkari clothing found its way into the back of Punjabi women’s closets, mixed in with their day-to-day wear and Westernized dresses. 

Gurlynn Gill, founder of Phulkari Co., dared to take the dupattas out of the closet, find the story within the fabric, and connect those threads to the present. 

“I always knew I wanted to start something… like be an entrepreneur,” explains Gill, a fourth year Finance major at San Jose State University (SJSU).

Coming from a family of business owners, she knew that she was going to follow in their footsteps. 

With that goal in mind and the tales of Punjab with her, Gill decided to embark on a business venture known as Phulkari Co.

Phulkari, which means “flower shape”, was originally made by Punjabi mothers and grandmothers for their daughters. The flowers were said to change, with each one shifting into another, depending on the character of the girl wearing it. The embroidery represented the very life of a young girl, and the journey she would go on. 

The small flowers of her Phulkari would change into the lilies that are grown by Punjabi farmers, sprouting from Punjabi soil. Gill grew her roots into a company that blossomed into a business widely appreciated by her community. 

But all flowers start off as seeds, and so did Phulkari Co.

Phulkari - which means “flower shape” was originally made by Punjabi mothers and grandmothers for their daughters.

Gill’s first launch was preceded by a small backyard shoot with her sister. She was not expecting much, considering the modest launch of her product. 

“And it actually sold out the first week so that was super surprising… [because] it’s just different,” she says proudly. And with that, she was on her way to making a South Asian brand like never before. Instead of Phulkari being hidden between dresses and T-shirts in closets, it was beginning to be adorned by the South Asian community in the Bay Area. 

But it was not without any challenges or obstacles. 

“Probably the biggest obstacle to start off with was kind of convincing my parents... [about] going out [and] working with random people I have not met before,” she says.

Being a woman and being brown does not come without its limitations. Many South Asian women find themselves barred from chasing their aspirations because of the expectations of their families and community. 

Within the South Asian community, and the Asian community in general, young adults are no strangers to the harsh expectations of what we are supposed to become, i.e. doctors and engineers. We all know of the difficulties Asian artists, musicians, and writers face in pursuit of their careers. 

Although Gill was able to be open with her family and have conversations about their concerns, many South Asian women find themselves held back by the unwillingness of those in their community and their own families. 

Gill recognizes this, “ A lot of girls [probably] have way stricter families [who are told to] just focus on your school, have your career, don’t really try to [take] risk taking endeavours.”

Along with the family restrictions South Asian women may face, there is also an incredible lack of Asian businesswomen in the market today. Although there are over 2 million Asian-owned business in the United States, more than half of them are male dominated. The pressure from family as well as a lack role models to follow can really negate confidence and prevent South Asian women from achieving their goals. 

“From the time I launched the brand, I was really unsure [because] I wasn’t confident in myself and my ability to have this brand,” Gill confessed hesitantly. 

Many South Asian women rarely feel represented in society, so it can be difficult for them to imagine being in a position of power, especially in a male-dominated career like business. However, the doubt does not just stop there. When South Asians do begin to take steps in pursuit of their passions, there are always people who, instead of showing support, will do everything they can to drag them down. That’s something Gill is well aware of. 

“For women, there is always someone [trying] to say something negative,” Gill responded when asked about the backlash women receive from their community. 

South Asian creatives such as photographers, artists, and musicians are rarely ever given a platform where they can gain confidence to create their own brand and are also relentlessly criticized. 

Lilly Singh, PC: asian cinevision

When Lilly Singh started hosting her own late-night talk show on NBC, A Little With Lilly,  joining a lineup of white, male talk show hosts last September, the backlash was unreal. People criticized every aspect of her show, from the way she dressed to the way she interviewed. The show definitely had its flaws, but men are rarely ever discredited to the extent she was. 

Many of us were in awe of seeing the first, brown, queer talk show host in a male-dominated industry, but that was quickly overpowered by the amount of antipathy she was receiving. 

“I faced it. Like a lot of people said you can’t do the brand, no one is going to buy Phulkari,” Gill recalls. 

It can be so discouraging for South Asian women to pursue their passions when they are constantly belittled especially when there are no examples of the lengths they could possibly go. 

For many young, brown women, Lilly Singh was that example. Now South Asian women can look to Gill as an entrepreneurial example. 

When Gill decided to start a company, she was also discouraged to only see male business owners. That is why it is imperative for Gill to continue giving other women a platform. 

Gill is spearheading a movement in which brown women come together to create something meaningful, and in doing so, they are breaking down walls and pushing through any obstacles thrown their way. Gill gives them that platform, they create, give others a platform, and just like that, brown women will be seen in positions of power in every single professional field. Gill is just the first of many South Asian businesswomen ready to take over the Silicon Valley and the Bay Area. 

Knowing the backlash women face when pursuing creative arts and the disapproval many face from their families, Gill has dedicated much of her time to working with other women, giving them a platform to display their art. She made the conscious decision to make every clothing launch a collaboration. 

“This was [a] different way to give back. The artists could get money for their art and they are able to start creating their brand for their art”,” says Gill.

Every single one of her collaborations represents a different aspect of Punjabi culture. 

Pehli Nazar TeePC: @phulkarico

One of her first collaborations was with Saher Jafri on the Pehli Nazar design, featuring a portrait of a Punjabi woman wearing a Phulkari dupatta. Pehli Nazar pays homage to the mehendi, or henna tradition, with the dupatta featuring intricate patterns. Before mehendi became westernized, the swirling patterns of dark ink decorated the hands and feets of women on their wedding day. 

Her upcoming collaboration features Punjabi giddha, which Gill says “was amazing because [I] didn’t really have [an artwork piece] dedicated to Punjabi women.” 

Giddha, a primarily women’s dance form, shows off Punjabi femininity and female energy. Its counterpart bhangra, primarily done by Punjabi men, was often praised for its elaborate choreography. Giddha was a chance for women to prove their strength and capability as part of the Punjabi community. 

Phulkari Co. strives to do the same. 

“A lot of the people that are starting brands [are] all guys. I’m not going to just back down... because I think I can do it too,” claims Gill proudly. 

Carrying the resilience of the Punjabi women who spend hours weaving, the Punjabi women who perform Giddha, and every other South Asian creative out there, Gill gains the confidence and strength to continue building her brand. Her biggest motivation continues to be the very power of Phulkari.

“That was [a] big thing to…  bring that art form back to life but in a new, fresh way but still to keep the tradition alive,” says Gill. 

“OG pocket tee”PC: @phulkarico

Every design and idea of hers is always intended to keep that tradition alive. The very first “OG pocket tee” was emblazoned with a hand-embroidered design, a simple black shirt with an intricate Phulkari pocket on the top right corner.

From her first launch to her Pehli Nazar collaboration to her upcoming collection featuring Punjabi Gidha, Gill is always looking for creatives who can help her pay homage to the Punjabi women who have allowed Phulkari Co. to become a company in the first place. 

“If those women did not ever hand embroider their Phulkaris…  and have all these floral patterns... , I wouldn’t be here, the brand wouldn’t be here,” says Gill. 

Now with a newly founded marketing team, Gill hopes to continue pushing the boundaries of American street wear. 

With Gill’s passion for community and her desire to create a network of South Asian businesswomen, I am sure there will soon be an influx of entrepreneurs ready to take their passions out of the closet and put them into action. 

“Follow your heart… even if your family is not for it or people are against it, just keep doing it,” advises Gill to other young South Asian women in pursuit of their unorthodox careers. 

Phulkari Co. just celebrated their second anniversary since their first launch in Gill’s backyard. From starting with only a few supporters in her immediate community to anticipated product launches by a large community of followers, I have no doubt in my mind that Gurlynn Gill will continue to break the barriers of just how far South Asian women can go. 

Follow Phulkari Co: @phulkarico

Shop Phulkari Co: https://phulkarico.com/

Written By: Saumya Monga